So, you're new to skincare. Or, maybe you've decided it's time to take your routine to the next level beyond using simple cleansers and moisturizers. Either way, you've done your research, read some online reviews, and stocked your budget with products that treat your main areas of concern. Now, you just need to figure out if the ingredients in all those creams, serums and masks work in harmony.
Welcome to skincare blending 101. in addition to picking formulas for your skin type and concerns, it's important that all the products in your routine complement each other so you can really see results." Mixing ingredients without a proper understanding of how they work and what other ingredients they may interact with can not only be a waste of money, but also a waste of time. It can also lead to frustration if you don't see the desired results (or if your skin becomes sensitive)," says Dr. Shari Marchbein, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
Skin irritation is another important factor to consider when planning the lineup of products in your skincare routine." Your skincare routine should include products that complement each other to avoid over-drying, over-exfoliating or irritating the skin," adds Dr. David Lortscher, CEO of Curology and a board-certified dermatologist." More isn't always better."
With the help of two dermatologists, we created a complete guide to the do's and don'ts of mixing and matching the most popular skincare ingredients in our products.
Retinol
Ah, retinol. It is one of the most respected skin care ingredients that dermatologists like to recommend. Also known as vitamin A, retinol is so great because it promotes skin cell turnover, which helps improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin texture, dark spots and acne. The only problem? Retinol can be extremely irritating." Retinol is an effective anti-aging ingredient, but can exacerbate dry skin," explains Dr. Lortscher.
Do Mix: Mix retinol with moisturizing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides, as well as SPF.
"Make sure to moisturize; hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid attract and hold water molecules to the surface of the skin, while oil-based emollients help seal in moisture. It's also important to remember that retinol can make you more sensitive to the sun.
"SPF sunscreen should be worn religiously every day of the year, not only to protect against skin cancer, wrinkles and sun spots, but because many of the other ingredients we apply to the skin, including retinol and retinoic acid, can make the skin more sensitive to the sun," says Dr. Marchbein.
Don't Mix: Retinol is mixed with vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide and AHA/BHA acids.
AHA and BHA acids are exfoliating and if your skin care routine already includes retinol, this can dry out the skin and cause further irritation.
As for benzoyl peroxide and retinol, they cancel each other out." Dr. Marchbein explains, "Using benzoyl peroxide and retinol together is not recommended because they can actually cancel each other out and make them less effective.
Finally, since vitamin C protects the skin from environmental aggressors and retinol repairs and rebuilds the skin, they are best used at different times of the day.
Vitamin C
"Vitamin C protects the skin from oxidative free radical damage and works best when used in the morning," says Dr. Marchbein. This ingredient also brightens the skin and can even lighten dark spots.
Do Mix: Vitamin C with antioxidants and sunscreens.
When vitamin C is used with other antioxidants such as vitamin E, it can increase effectiveness and efficiency. The same is true for using vitamin C under sunscreen." Dr. Marchbein explains, "Vitamin C serums should always be used in layers under sunscreen because they complement each other and will protect the skin from UV damage.
Don't Mix: Vitamin C with retinol.
In contrast to vitamin C, retinol and retinoids build collagen and help repair the skin, so they are best used at night. Since vitamin C thrives during the day, it's best to keep these ingredients separate because they function so differently.
AHA/BHA Acids
Salicylic, glycolic and lactic acids are all effective exfoliators that can improve skin texture, tone and, in the case of SA, treat acne. That said, all three acids can dehydrate and irritate the skin. The bottom line is this. When using a product containing AHA or BHA acids, follow up with a hydrating product.
Do Mix: AHA/BHA acids are mixed with moisturizing ingredients and SPF.
"It's important to moisturize after using AHA and BHA to limit irritation. look for ceramides, petrolatum, hyaluronic acid and glycerin to hydrate and soothe the skin," says Dr. Marchbein. Using a product that combines multiple low levels of AHA and BHA acids can be an extremely effective way to exfoliate and unclog pores.
As with retinol, AHA/BHA acids can cause sensitivity to the sun. While you should apply sunscreen daily, regardless of what products are in your skincare routine, it is especially important not to skip this step when using these ingredients.
Don't Mix: AHA/BHA acids with retinol.
"I strongly caution those who also use retinol for acne or anti-aging, as the combination with various acids can lead to excessive skin sensitivity, irritation and redness. In fact, AHAs and BHAs should not usually be used together with retinoids on the same day," explains Dr. Marchbein." Also, be careful about combining various acids and even physical and chemical exfoliants, as this can lead to irritation and even eczema."
Benzoyl Peroxide
If you have acne-prone skin, benzoyl peroxide can be a game-changer in your skincare routine. The caveat? It is another drying ingredient." Because acne treatments in general can lead to dry and irritated skin, combining them together needs to be done with caution, and every other part of the skincare routine (i.e., cleanser and moisturizer) needs to be very gentle and ultra-moisturizing," explains Dr. Marchbein.
Do Mix: Mix benzoyl peroxide with mild moisturizing ingredients, SPF and topical antibiotics.
In addition to moisturizing ingredients that buffer the dehydrating effects of benzoyl peroxide, anti-acne ingredients can be used with prescription topicals such as clindamycin. SPF should also be worn daily.
Don't Mix: Benzoyl peroxide with retinol, acne prescription tretinoin with caution.
As previously mentioned, benzoyl peroxide and retinol can inactivate each other when used together. While prescription acne treatments can be used with BP, retinoin requires extra caution.
Dr. Lortscher explains." Depending on the formulation of the product, benzoyl peroxide may inactivate retinol if it is mixed with retinol. He says, "In our experience, they do work well when applied one after the other to the skin - and the order doesn't matter, just apply one gently and completely before applying the other." If you want to minimize the chance of any interactions, use a formula containing tretinoin in the afternoon and benzoyl peroxide in the morning if you're using tretinoin, or use a washable benzoyl peroxide cleanser rather than layering benzoyl peroxide.
Niacinamide
Also known as Vitamin B3, this antioxidant is an anti-inflammatory agent that brightens the skin and evens out discoloration.
Do Mix: Niacinamide with (almost) every ingredient in your skincare routine.
"Because niacinamide is anti-inflammatory, skin reacts to it very minimally and side effects such as irritation are uncommon," explains Dr. Lortscher." It should be compatible with most other skin care products, and for best results, use a leave-on product such as a moisturizer."
Don't Mix: Niacinamide and vitamin C.
While they are both antioxidants, vitamin C is an ingredient that is incompatible with niacinamide." Dr. Marchbein says, "Both are very common antioxidants used in a variety of skin care products, but they shouldn't be used one right after the other." Their effectiveness is significantly diminished when used together unless there is at least 10 minutes between applications of each serum."
SPF
If you're going to use one skin care product, use SPF. it's the only way to effectively protect your skin from cancer and environmental aggressors, which can lead to premature signs of aging. Given its importance, SPF can be layered on top of any skin care ingredient.
Do Mix: SPF can (and should) be used in any and every skincare routine.
Don't Mix: SPF with makeup or moisturizers.
Yes, SPF may feel like an extra step in an already extensive skincare routine, but don't try to take shortcuts. "Don't mix sunscreen with makeup or moisturizer and apply it as is - sunscreen should be applied in a single layer to maintain the protective factor," says Dr. Lortscher.
